starlink 12 volt conversion

How To Power Starlink Satellite Internet on 12 Volt DC

Starlink satellite internet has been a game changer for us. Allowing us to venture further off grid while still having internet to work remotely. The only hassle has been the fact that it’s only powered by 120 volt AC. Well that has now changed! Here’s how we converted our Starlink Satellite Internet to 24 volts DC. And yes this works for 12 volt and 48 volt systems as well.

How Does Starlink Work

This guide is based on the V.2 square Starlink system. I’m not familiar with other versions so I can’t say if this would work for different versions.

The basic components of Starlink internet are fairly simple and are composed of just 2 parts.

Part 1 is the satellite dish which houses the actual modem and provides all of the ‘Starlink’ functionality including the Starlink app functions. The dish connects to the Starlink router by way of a shielded Cat5 ethernet cable.

Part 2 is the router which is a 120 volt AC powered router that broadcasts a WiFi signal but also serves one more important function. And that is to provide power to the dish by way of POE or power over ethernet.

starlink satellite internet

Since the dish itself does not have a dedicated power cord the power for the dish is provided by way of the Cat5 ethernet cable. This is termed POE or power over ethernet. When you look at the Starlink system it’s not obvious that the cables are just Cat5 ethernet since Starlink uses its own proprietary connections.

Because the system needs POE to power the disc it’s not as simple as just cutting the cable and attaching a standard RJ45 ethernet connector. In addition to installing standard RJ45 connectors there also must be a POE injector to provide the needed power.

Click below for a video going over the steps of converting your Starlink Satellite Internet to 12 volts.

Benefits of Starlink 12 Volt Conversion

In addition to the obvious benefit of powering from a DC source there are several other perks to this conversion. The big one for us was shortening the lengthy 75 foot cable that connects to the dish. For residential applications this isn’t a problem but for Vanlife and Overlanding all that extra length is a lot to deal with.

starlink internet overland truck

We find that we typically mount our Starlink dish to the roof of our overland truck which needs only 5-10 feet of cable. By cutting the Starlink cable and replacing the connections with network RJ45 connectors we can choose whatever length we need. The remainder of the cable can also still be used and simply added into the system should you want the Satellite dish a littler further away from your RV or camper.

Another benefit to converting the Starlink connectors to RJ45 fittings is that there are some nice wall pass through connectors that can be wired into the side of your camper box that can provide water tight connections for the Starlink cable. Previously you had to run the cable through a window or other compartment.

Beginners Guide To Campervan Electrical Systems – A great place to learn or refresh on the basics of campervan electrical systems. We go over Watts and Amps, 12v Vs. 24v systems, charging sources, and the difference between standard batteries and Lithium.

What’s Needed to Power Starlink on DC Power

In order to build a Starlink internet system that will run off 12 volt, 24 volt, or 48 volt DC power you will need the following components.

1. Power Over Ethernet(POE) Injector

This device is what connects inline with the ethernet cable to provide the power that the dish needs to operate. Now this device doesn’t actually provide the power as it is just the mechanism that provides a way to introduce power.

POE Injector
POE(power over ethernet) injector – Check Prices

2. DC to DC Converter

To provide the needed power to the POE injector we need a source of 48 volts to power the Starlink. These DC to DC converters are available in various configurations for either 12 volt or 24 volt systems but must be capable of at least 150 watts at 48 to 56 volts.

With the DC power supply connected to the POE, the ethernet cable can now be powered with the 48 volts needed for the Starlink dish.

DC to DC converter
12 volt to 48 volt DC converter – Check Prices

3. DC Powered Router

The final component needed for this conversion is a DC powered router. This is an easy one as almost all routers are powered by 12 volt even if they have an AC plug.

The router that we will be using is a router that also has an internal cellular modem which takes a dedicated SIM card for cellular data connections. This single router now can provide internet by way of cellular SIM card or Starlink. In addition some routers can even load share or load balance. This is where the data is split between the different sources of internet which can increase upload and download speeds.

Here’s the router we are using which I highly recommend. They also have a similar version that lets you use two different cellular SIM cards at once.

mofi router cellular modem
MOFI5500-5GXeLTE-EM9191-COMBO CAT20 LTE + 5G ROUTER

Now keep in mind the most basic of routers will work here. You certainly don’t need one as feature rich as the model above. This $30 model below would work just fine.

WiFi Router – Check Prices

So these are the three pieces of hardware needed to make the Starlink DC conversion from a 12 volt or 24 volt system. If you already have a 48 volt system you would not need that DC to DC converter mentioned above.

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Starlink Satellite DC Conversion Overview

Here’s a diagram outlining the general setup of the DC conversion. This design is what we used because we wanted to shorten the main cable length. There is another way of doing a 12 volt conversion that doesn’t require cutting the main cable so that you could always return the system to stock down the road. This might be useful in the future if you wanted to sell the system. I’ll go over that option here in a bit.

12 volt Starlink Adapter

The system is fairly strait-forward but let’s run through each part one more time. From the dish you will cut off the proprietary Starlink connector and replace that with a standard RJ45 connector but wired in a unique way that we will refer to as the ‘swapped’ wiring.

That swapped connector from dish is then plugged into the POE injector. The DC power source which provides 48 volts and at least 150 watts of power is also wired into the POE device. On the other end of the POE device is another swapped network connector. This cable is what goes from the POE device to your standard router.

On the router end of that cable you will have a standard T568B wired connector that connects to the router. With this configuration you can now plug your DC powered Starlink into ANY router.

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Starlink DC Conversion Using Ethernet Adapter

Here’s the other option I talked about above that doesn’t require the cutting of the main Starlink dish cable. For this setup you will need to purchase the Starlink ethernet adapter and replace the proprietary connector on that adapter with a swapped ethernet connector described above. The ethernet adapter has an RJ45 port which you won’t actually use.

***When you cut off the the proprietary connector you’ll see two sets of wires. Ignore the smaller wires and just connect to the larger gauge wire set.

Starlink Internet 12 volt power

Once you replace the Starlink connection on the ethernet adapter with the swapped connector you just simply plug the Starlink connector from the dish to the ethernet adapter. The swapped connector on the ethernet adapter then just plugs into the POE injector and the rest of the setup is the same.

Check out our favorite Starlink mounting options and accessories…including flat mounts – Best Starlink Accessories

starlink ethernet adapter
Starlink Ethernet Adapter

Wiring The Swapped RJ45 Starlink Connections

Ethernet cables are composed of 4 pairs of wire. There’s an orange and white pair, green and white, blue and white and brown and white pair.

I should mention that Starlink uses a shielded Cat5e cable which means there’s an additional layer sheathing as well as a bare wire that helps reduce interference. The shielded wires require a shielded RJ45 connector which has metal on it to maintain the shielding.

Standard RJ45 Connector Wiring – T568B

There are a couple standards for the wiring order of ethernet cables but the one that we will be using is T568B. This is the wire order that will be used on the cable end that plugs into the router. That same cable will have the swapped or different wiring order on the end that plugs into the POE injector.

RJ45 Standard T568B Wiring
Standard T568B Wire Order

Swapped RJ45 Starlink Connector Wiring

Next we have the swapped wire order that is needed to provide a path for the power from the POE to the dish. These connections will be used on both sides of the POE injector and if used, the pigtail on the Starlink ethernet adapter.

Swapped RJ45 Starlink Wiring

RJ45 Pinout Wire Order

Now that you have an idea of the different wire orders let’s have a look at which side of the RJ45 connector is the number 1 spot vs number 8 spot. If you’re holding the connector with the metal contacts facing away from you and facing up then number 1 is on the left and number 8 will be on the right.

RJ45 Wiring

Required Tools

If you haven’t checked out the YouTube on this DIY conversion now would be a good time to give it a look. Here you can see the actual process of ordering and sorting the wires along with crimping of the RJ45 connectors. You can also get a good view of the finished system and how everything goes together.

Starlink DC Conversion Step by Step YouTube

YouTube Starlink DC Conversion

Our DIY Overland Camper Build Facebook group is for people just like you that want to learn more about building your dream rig. Wether it’s a campervan, box truck, skoolie, or airplane with wheels, you’ve come to the right place.

Does The Starlink App Still Work With a 12 Volt Conversion?

Yes, the app still works since the Starlink dish and not the router control the app functionality

How Much Does Starlink Cost?

Starlink costs $110 a month plus a one time purchase of $599 for the equipment

What is Starlink for RVs?

Starlink for RV allows you to pause and un-pause your Starlink service on a monthly basis. This option brings your monthly rate to $135 but you only pay for it when you need it.

72 thoughts on “How To Power Starlink Satellite Internet on 12 Volt DC”

      1. I have a 400w inverter connected to my 12v house battery. Plugging starlink into that seems like a simple solution?

        1. That would work just fine. Starlink runs well on most inverters. You’ll burn a little extra battery power but not a huge deal for most folks.

  1. I already have a battery power box that uses EGO 56 volt batteries – and then (with “inverters” I have installed) delivers 12 volts, 24 volts, and the straight output of 56 volts. It looks like your suggested PoE will accept this 56 volts – and simply pass that through to the Starlink antenna – do you think that 56 volts to the Starlink would be acceptable? I could not find a 56 to 48-volt inverter.

    I am thinking that it would probably be OK. I use these same 56 volt batteries to run a rather sophisticated telescope mount that requires 48volts – and that all seems to work just fine.

    By the way – EXCELLENT article on the Starlink conversion to DC!!!

      1. That definitely wouldn’t hurt but I would do a little more research and I think you’ll find that 56-58 volts is just fine and likely better than 48 volts.

    1. I think the 56 volt will be fine and many people mention that 56-58 volts is actually ideal and closer to what the original Starlink router delivered. The facebook group Starlink Hacks has some great information on this topic. Sounds like a great setup you have.

      1. Thanks again August – that is what I suspected. Similar to most things that say they want 12 volts – running 13.5 to 14 is just fine, if not better.

    2. Hello all.
      I am following the instructions of this article using the adapter instead of the main cable.
      In your video i see 4 pairs.

      However, after i stripped mine adapter i see 8 pairs. 4 pairs are thicker than the other 4.
      So i am a bit puzzled.

      My question is, what pairs do i need to use to follow the instructions.

      The idea is to leave the main cable as it is and connect the cable via the adapter to the poe input.
      What is the best solution in this case?

      To bad i cannot add any pictures to clarify.

      Thanks for any input.

      1. Hi Bob, Just ignore the pairs of smaller gauge wires. You can just cut them off. The thicker wires are what you want to use.

  2. Great video – thank you!! One thing that puzzles me – it makes perfect sense that if you are injecting 48 volts into the PoE, then that 48 volts will go out to the Starlink antenna – however, will the PoE also put out 48 volts to the Router. Is that OK? Does the Router need its own (typically) 12 volt power supply – or is the PoE giving it the voltage it needs with the ethernet cable plugged into the Internet port of the Router?

    1. My understanding is that the POE only injects the power to one leg of the network cable. So the cable going to the dish will be powered but the network cable going to router is not powered. The router does need it’s own 12 volt power supply and most routers are designed for 12 volt DC power.

      1. August – EXCELLENT – the separate 12 volt to the Router makes perfect sense – no problem – and that is what I suspected. You may wish to add that little tidbit to the article and diagram that you have so thoughtfully put together already. It is so thorough that one tends to just stop thinking about how to do it – and simply follow your directions exactly – wire by wire by wire – but you do not show that 12-volt wire to the Router – and the PoE thing sort of confuses it.

  3. Thank you for article (and the video), very helpful

    I still don’t own the system so pardon with my possibly ignorant questions:

    1. Where the starlink app connects to? Is the control software running on the starlink dish or the starlink router?

    2. When going the “starlink ethernet adapter” route. Do you think it will work if we use the ethernet port of the “starlink ethernet adapter” to connect the 3rd party router instead of the thernet port on the “POE injector” (use POE injector only to inject power)? Seems like it would require disabling starlink router in starlink app as shown in https://youtu.be/4zHlgJhgyfg?t=377

    Thanks.

    1. Hi,

      1. The starlink app connects to the dish by way of ANY router. All the functionality of the app is retained as that is not dependent on the router.
      2. It’s my understanding that the ethernet port on the ethernet adapter does not provide the needed POE power for the dish. Where would you power the dish with POE power?

  4. Hi there, I cut the plug of the Ethernet adapter and it has 2 sets of pairs? One is thicker than the other set. Do I use the thicker set of pairs?

    1. Dan,
      I’m not sure, I have not cut one of those open yet but I know a lot of people have. The Starlink Hacks group on Facebook has some good info on these conversions. I’ll see if I can dig anything up.

    2. Dan, I just ran into the same thing and I simply cut and ignored the smaller set of wires. Having done so, the dish seems to work as it should.

  5. Fully set up and didn’t even realize it!! August – I finally got the required Starlink Ethernet Adapter and RJ45 shielded connectors and wired everything up – just like you show. Works awesome!! Of note 1) the 56 volts that I am dumping in from the EGO batteries seem to be just fine 2) the tp-link router you recommended works great, and 3) I am confused with where/how/if to set up the tp-link router. Should I use the Starlink app on my phone? Apparently, you don’t need to do anything. Having said that, the “Network” and “Statistics” tabs are now grayed out – and I am missing some functionality of the app – like “Stow” and “Heat”. Did I miss something? Should I have gone in and used the “Bypass” mode? Any thoughts appreciated.

    1. You’ll set up your router just as you would with a traditional internet connection. Simply plug in your starlink to the router and follow the router setup instructions to create your wifi network name and password. Then connect your phone to the new router wifi and open the starlink app. The app should be working now. Are the other parts of the app like speed test working? I’ve never had network or stats grey out.

    1. Steve, you’ll want to go with at least 150 watts. I’m currently using a 200 watt version. I would look at the watts and not amps since amps will change with voltage. Some of the listings show the amps on the 12v side and some show the amps on the 48v side which can be confusing. But the output should be around 4 amps at 48v which gives you about 200 watts.

  6. Great article and instructions but has anyone measured the total wattage after the conversion to 12 volts with the router.

    1. Thanks. I unfortunately don’t have a way to get the watts of just the 12 volt system as I have additional components on that circuit. Maybe someone else can chime in. I think the power saving will primarily come from not having to run the inverter for the Starlink system.

  7. Hi August, thanks for making this information available for everyone.

    Is it that much more efficient to run Starlink over direct DC vs using an Inverter from your DC system to run the standard Starlink router? A good quality inverter has about 10% power loss.

    Are we only saving ~10% by switching Starlink to a DC power supply or are there other losses I am not considering?

    1. For my inverter just to have it switched on runs me about 1 amp per hour and then you have the 10% loss on top of that. So when I don’t need my inverter on this can save a lot of energy. I also wanted to ditch the stock Starlink router in favor of a better one. So I think the biggest savings is in the ability to turn your inverter off. If you always have your inverter on then the savings is probably negligible. Hope that helps.

  8. How are you powering your router? Using the wall wart and a/c power or did you modify the router to run directly off of d/c?

    I just fried an old router I had laying around attempting to run it off my battery directly. The plug says 12v 1.5a output but it started smoking when running it directly off 12v. Thanks!

      1. Hi, I just wanted to thank you for this write-up! I was successful in getting a new router running on 12v with my whole system now running off 12v as well. Well done! Super happy. Thanks so much.

          1. Hi, so it worked great for 3 or 4 days but now when I connect it says no internet connection.

            The Starlink app says online with a spinning icon that never turns green and after 30 seconds or so the online notice goes away and it says to connect to Starlink Wi-Fi.

            Any idea why this may be happening?

            I’ve rebooted my router and reconnected all my Ethernet connectors. The light on the POE is on and everything seems fine otherwise.

          2. Yeah, I’ve tried everything. I’m going to mess with it more today and if no luck, I will revert back to the original router and see if it connects to rule out the dish.

  9. Hello again,

    I have a doubt (an other yes :P)
    I use the following poe injector:
    http://www.yulinca.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=378
    As i read on amazon that someone used it with success on a dishy v1 (more power, so v2 should be fine).

    However, i am a bit in a strugle with the crimping.
    You said in the video that your poe injector has a different cable wire. Is this due to the poe converter or is it due to the starlink dishy v2?

    if its for the poe converter, then the standard poe wire shoud be fine (568b). if not, then i need to use your wire diagram, independently of the poe injector that we use?

    thank you

    1. 90 watt is a little low but worth a try I suppose. Have you also watched my Youtube video? That might help.
      The different wire order or “swapped” as I will refer them as is due to the Starlink system so that it matches what Starlink wants.

      So on the diagrams in this post whenever you see the “swapped” RJ45 connector, that is a different wire order than the standard 568b wire order.
      So both RJ45 connectors that plug into the POE will be a “swapped” wire order.

      Now the wire going from POE to your router will have a “swapped” end plugging into the POE but a NORMAL end(568b) that plugs into router.
      The wire going from POE to your v2 dish will be a “swapped” RJ45 connection.

      I hope that answers your question.

  10. Yes i have watched the video, mulitple times.
    The thing is, when i plug it in the poe converter it does not detect anything.
    let me clarify:
    xedge router does not see any activity led when i plug in the cable created as indicated on this site.
    Also when i put both ends with 586b as website of the poe device indicates.
    at least an activity led should burn. Both cables have been tested, and passed the test with a cable tester.

    i have tried the following possible solutions:

    your instructions on this website.
    586b on both ends.
    non indicates activity on xedge router, tested mulitple ports, ports work with other equipment.

    It can be that my poe injector is doa.
    however, when i pluged in dishy via the adapter on the converter, it had no internet, and after plugin it back to starlink router, i needed to rest it.
    Otherwise it would not detect internet. So, something is happening.

    I think i will try to order your indicated poe injector, and avoid bricking dishy.

    thank you.

    1. Are you trying to power the router with POE? That is not what the POE is for. The POE is for powering the Starlink Dish. The router needs to be powered separately.

      You should NOT be plugging in 568B wire connectors to the POE. Both plugs going into POE should be the “swapped” wire order.

  11. Great material,mate. Thanks for that, really helpful.

    One question, though. Am I confused or are the wiring schemes for the swapped end of the cable different in the full diagram and the close up a bit below? On the full diagram, solid orange is followed by light blue, and on the close up it is followed by solid blue.

    Can anyone please confirm which one is right?

    Just making the conversion in a sailboat installation, that’s the last missing part. Wish me luck.

    Thanks a lot.

    1. Use the close up image for the wire order. The overview image doesn’t have the modified wire order I should update that image. Sorry for the confusion.

  12. Hey,

    I was finally able to get the connection to dishy from a edge-x router.
    PoE output is stable, and dishy is reachable on the homepage.
    However, dishy complains it needs the wifi router of starlink.
    I am also not able to connect to internet using dishy.

    Cables are crimped using above code and cable tester confirms it.
    what could be wrong with it ?
    cables used: cat 6a shielded.
    tycon poe injector.
    sufficient power transformer for dishy (tycon is green).
    I will leave it on during tonight, to see if it comes online.
    But from what i see it should already be online.

    Any ideas or tips?
    thank you

    1. please disregard the last post.
      it seems that starlink did needed some time to activate everyting.

      i do have now internet without starlink shity wifi crap thingi..
      yay

  13. I’m building out an overland truck camper and just purchased the new high performance starlink. Do you happen to know if the new high performance mobile version also uses 48-56v? Fantastic article for DIY overlanders! Thanks!

  14. Hi August!

    Great material!
    I’m about to make kit number 2 with an extra ethernet adapter.
    The manual says that the power converter should be at least 150W. I understand that in my case I buy a “step-up converter” 12V -> 48V/56V, which has 4-6A and therefore over 200W. This is understandable to me.

    Unfortunately, I do not understand this: when I am looking for POE (unfortunately, I cannot order the one you recommend for the EU), it shows me that this equipment also has the power of W.
    And here I totally don’t know what’s going on, I understood that it is the converter that injects electricity into POE and POE further. So why is the “W” value shown next to the POE device itself? Does it matter?

    Even with your recommended POE, I found information that it has 90W.

    With those found on my market, it goes from 15W to 60W for a POE device.

    What am I not understanding…?

    1. So some POE’s do in fact come with the power component already built into them. They will be pretty obvious as they usually have an outlet plug associated with them.

      The POE’s without a power supply have wattage ratings because that is the recommended max wattage. Or at least that’s the only logical thing I could come up with.

      I would just go with the highest wattage POE you can find with a step up converter as your described. Sounds like you’re heading in the right direction, just a matter of finding available parts.

      Hope that helps,

  15. So do you need to set the Starlink router to bypass mode, or since I’m leaving it unplugged then no. I did everything in the video, but have no internet access. I cannot tell if I have power to the dish.

    Not sure if I crossed wires or it is a technical issue. Do I have to re-start the Starlink like it is my first time using it through the app?

    1. You don’t need to do anything with the old Starlink router. You’ll know you have power to the dish when it first gets plugged in and moves to position itself. I would try just restarting the app but there’s no need to do anything else with the app. Sounds like it might be a connection/wiring problem.

  16. Thanks for the excellent write up and tutorial.

    Question on the Ethernet adapter version. Would it not be possible to wire the ‘step up converter’ directly to the cutoff end on the Ethernet adapter, and use the RJ45 Ethernet connector provided by the ‘adapter’ to connector to the router? All the injector is doing is gathering the correct wires, and in starlink’s case nonstandard. Am I missing something? Little unsure about how the shield would factor in here..

    1. I’m not sure I understand exactly what you’re thinking. The POE injector is applying power to one of the wires in the ethernet cable.The POE injector itself does not have power which is why you have to also supply power to the POE injector. So that solves getting the power within the ethernet cable that is needed to power the dish.
      The next challenge is that the wire order is not standard on Starlink and thus the reason we need to wire them in the correct order. The Starlink ethernet adapter is not a POE injector or power source. The ethernet adapter simply allows you to swap the wire order on the ethernet adapter without having to cut your main cable going to the dish.
      Let me know if that helps clear things up. Thanks

    2. I get what you’re asking. I guess it all depends on the wiring inside the magic ethernet adapter. Sounds theoretically possible, .. has anyone cut one open and identified the guts (if any) and wiring diagram?

  17. Hello. The dc/dc converter in your Amazon link is not available anymore. I was thinking of getting this one but the output is 240W.
    —-
    12V 24V to 48V DC Step Up Converter (Input 10-25V) Boost Voltage Transformer (5A 240W) https://a.co/d/g2DCaCW
    —-
    This might be a newb question, but will this blow out the dish if it’s too much or will the dish just simply use less juice and it’ll work fine? I’m using the new high performance flat dish. Thank you!

    1. The dc/dc converter you mentioned will work fine. It doesn’t matter if it’s oversized(higher amps/watts) as the dish will only call for what it needs. Oversizing is never a bad thing as it’s best if the dc/dc does not run at max output all the time.

      I just recently saw on Amazon a dc/dc converter that boosted up to 56 volts. I didn’t see it now when I just looked. Probably sold out. But that one would work as well.

      Thanks

  18. After following the instruction my router does not seem to recognize a cable attached. I understand by getting rid of the box I can’t access directly the dish. Any way I can trouble shoot? I would like to find out if this is a power or a data problem. If I plug the Router piece in the LED’s do not show any activity on the Router.

    1. So you actually can access the dish phone app as the starlink box is only a router. The functionality of the starlink app is all based in the dish(there are a few functions you loose but the majority of them work). I don’t know how to trouble shoot if it’s a power or data issue. There are ethernet cable testers that check the continuity of the wiring in the connections. I’ve never used one but they are pretty cheap. That would be a good place to start as it’s possible one of your RJ54 connections are bad.
      Does the POE show power? They usually have a light on them somewhere.

  19. Hi, I am confused with the wiring swap for the Starlink pinout. There are 2 wiring diagrams in the article.

    On the first pic under “Starlink Satellite DC Conversion Overview” the swapped wire order is: OrangeW, Orange, BlueW, Green, GreenW, Blue, BrownW, Brown
    On the second pic under “Swapped RJ45 Starlink Connector Wiring” the swapped wire order is: OrangeW, Orange, Blue, GreenW, Green, BlueW, BrownW, Brown

    Some other sites show either of these so I am very confused as to which swap is the correct one?

    Thanks

    1. Hey sorry that first overview image is a bit confusing. Ignore the wire colors in the overview image. Just pay attention to the swapped wiring and the standard wiring labels.
      If you scroll down I have a zoomed in image showing the swapped and standard wire order, those are correct and what you should follow.

  20. What are people using for routers that run off of 12 volts? I’m worried that I might fry a router because my RV has voltages higher than 12v when the batteries are fully charged. A router that will safely run on 11-16vdc would be perfect. I do not need, nor wish to pay for, a cellular capable router like a Mofi unit.

    1. Good question. All routers that I have ever seen are capable of a range of voltages like you mentioned. You’ll just have to look up the specs of the router. The basic router mentioned in this article would work fine.

  21. Excellent article this is… Very helpful. Thank you.

    My 2800W Magnum inverter eats ~ 3A at idle so cutting that out of the equation should be a big win. I’m looking forward to decreasing the power draw to run the Starlink.

    1. Addendum: I ordered and just received the WiFi Router you recommended (TP-Link AC1200). I see that the power supply is rated at 9VDC & not the expected 12 VDC.

      Will it work on a nominal 12V supply; ie 12.0 to 14.2V?

      Do I need to get step-down converter or should I look for a true 12V ready WiFi router?

      -evan

  22. Many Mikrotik products can accept a wide range of voltages; some’ll do 8-30, others can accept up to 57v

    So I’ve tried this setup, using the Ethernet adapter (thankfully, since I’ve had to go back to the stock setup for now)
    I was planning on powering my wAPac using the same 56v being fed to dishy. Actually, .. the wAP part worked fine. Got some cameras hooked up to it, .. it was being powered off the 56v by way of converter from the 12v bus of my solar setup. At this point, .. the Starlink was powered by an inverter, all was well.

    I cannot get my Starlink to work off of DC. I have spent over a decade in IT, including installations, so working with the wiring is nothing new for me. I tried it both ways on the crossover wiring, doing both sides of the PoE. (tried it w/o swapping on the data side the first time and of course it didn’t work)
    Ow,O,BL,Gw,G,BLw,BRw,Br
    Ow,O,BLw,G,Gw,BL,BRw,Br

    I’m using the ‘Tycon’ PoE injector from Amazon, and I tested and saw voltage on all wires as expected.

    Dishy starts up.
    I can even ping Google
    I can (and I found this funny and frustrating) get the occasional Facebook message in/out – I know it was working b/c my phone was in Airplane mode and I was on my wAP network.
    But.. when I went on my laptop and ran recursive ping, .. things did not look good. It would ping fairly regularly, with good (great) times to 8.8.8.8 .. but it would only get through a MAX of 10-12 pings (sometimes as few as 4) before it would drop out for a few and then start again.

    I know Dishy is fine b/c when plugged back in to the stock router, it works.

    What the heck am I missing?? I’m hoping someone has some suggestions..

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